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Is My Retaining Wall Level
A water level will work and is very accurate. Connect clear tubing to a garden hose and let the water rise to its own level along the length of the project.
Water levels hold a fixed volume and need to be recalibrated when you move them, so I don't like to use them for checking intermediate points. I use a cheap laser level and set it up over the long interval with a water level. A cheap laser level may be good enough on its own, but in combination with a water level, you can level to better than 1/4" over your 80 ft distance.
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Is My Retaining Wall Level
I have used the reservoir idea before and it does help. It also cuts down on the fluid oscillating back and forth whenever you move one end of the water level, also.
If I have a straight sight line, I still like the laser, because I can turn it on and use a wood block with a mark on it to check the level height all along the line. But, I have also found the water level to be better than the bubble levels that are in some of the cheap laser units. For me, putting a block of wood on the fence and looking for the laser spot is the easiest way to go. But Tom makes a good point about the water level working around corners and obstacles.
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Is My Retaining Wall Level
The bubble levels in some of the cheap laser levels may very well not be very accurate, but they shoot a straight line of laser light none the less. In my previous posts, I suggested using the water level for the best accuracy and the laser level for best convenience. Bear in mind that some of these laser levels have a screw for adjusting the beam to the bubble level and you can use the water level to calibrate it.
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Is My Retaining Wall Level
That will work fine.
I am glad the water level worked for you.
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Is My Retaining Wall Level
You might be able to see the laser better if other wavelengths of light other than the ~680 nm line from the laser were filtered out somewhat. I have never tried these glasses but I expect that they should have a red color to work properly.
Laser brightness has not been a problem with my laser level. I think that it is more of a problem with the line generating lasers where the laser is scanned with a motorized mirror.
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Is My Retaining Wall Level
I build automated machinery for a living, not masonary walls. The question about how good is good enough always comes up when you are doing home repairs. Personally, I like to get things as close as possible, but I pay a price as it takes longer to do things with high accuracy.
The absolute best level that I own for leveling machine tools will read 0.0005" out of level over a 12" span. That is as good as a bubble level can get as far as I know. So even that grade of level is only going to be able to measure level to about 0.040 over 80 ft. You can do about as well with the water level that I discussed in my first post.
For times that I really want a level line and where I want to use a laser for quick checks, I put my precision level on a steel plate and level it out and then put the calibrated laser level on that plate and ignore the bubble level in the laser level. I use an offset block that is the height of the laser beam above the surface that I am leveling. For simple jobs I put a pencil mark on a piece of 2X4 and make sure the pencil mark bisects the laser beam when placed on the surface. If I want something more accurate, I drill a hole in a piece of metal and this allows me to more precisely level a surface even though the laser beam gets larger at a distance.
I have known guys that have torn out masonary walls because they were not level. These were new walls that they did not do the prep work to start with a level base. In this case, a problem that might have bothered you was caught with the first row of blocks. It should be smooth sailing from here on. Good Luck.
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